Tweed: A Buyers Guide
Tweed is synonymous with the Scottish Highlands and has become an iconic fabric used in a range of clothing since the 18th century. We all recognise this classic material used for country clothing, but what is tweed exactly?
In this blog, we’ll cover everything you need to know about tweed, from its origins to its chief characteristics. We’ll also explain the different types of tweed and patterns so you can find the best option for you.
Are you looking for your own traditional tweed country wear? We have a range of men's country clothing and women's country clothing here at Philip Morris, all made from the highest quality materials by premium brands.
What is Tweed?
Tweed is a rough, woven fabric made from wool. It incorporates various coloured threads that, when woven together, create classic patterns.
Tweed is well known for its properties as a warm, durable and weather-resistant material, making it ideal for stylish farmers and outdoor enthusiasts across the UK. When you think of this material, you’ll probably picture classy country jackets, and tweed is extremely popular for traditional outerwear like hunting and shooting clothing.
When was Tweed Created?
Tweed dates back to the 18th century in Scotland and has become A symbol of Scottish culture. Tweed was created by local weavers who made thick woollen cloth for farm clothing to help rural workers withstand harsh weather conditions.
Originally designed as a durable outdoor garment, the British aristocracy adopted the material in the 19th century. It quickly became a staple of country attire for wealthy landowners during leisurely outdoor activities like shooting and horseback riding.
In the modern world, tweed has become a fashionable fabric used by a range of designer brands. Overall, though, tweed still remains synonymous with chic country wear.
What Is Tweed Made Of?
Tweed is made from sheep's wool. The wool is sheared from sheep and then carded, which is the process of detangling and aligning the wool. It’s then spun, dyed and woven into a cloth. There are many different breeds of sheep that are used to create tweed, from merino to cheviot sheep. Each one of these breeds produces a different type of wool, which in turn creates different types of tweed.
Authentic tweed is made using 100% wool, but you can also find tweed blends. These include different fibres, including cashmere and polyester, which give the fabric different properties.
When Do People Wear Tweed?
In the modern day, tweed has become a staple for country clothing and is primarily worn for more formal occasions, during shooting events and at the races.
Tweed is particularly favoured for shooting season as it balances a more formal look with practical camouflage for this more sophisticated sport. At horse racing events, where the dress code is often formal or smart, tweed offers a refined but rugged aesthetic that ensures you look stylish with a touch of traditional country heritage.
What Are the Different Types of Tweed?
There are several different types of tweed, each with its own unique pattern and history.
Harris Tweed
The most famous form of tweed, Harris Tweed, is an artisan tweed. This tweed is carefully controlled and even legally trademarked. What makes Harris Tweed iconic is the dedication and skill involved in the production process. Every step is done by hand without electricity, using only traditional weaving and dyeing methods. In order to be deemed authentic Harris Tweed, the material needs to be handwoven, dyed and spun in the Outer Hebrides of Scotland using only pure virgin wool.
This trademarked tweed even has a governing body, the A symbol of Scottish culture which enforces strict standards and authenticity throughout the production of their tweed.
Harris Tweed is characterised by its bright colours, incredible detail and high-quality feel.
Donegal Tweed
Originating in Ireland, this tweed is recognised by the unique speckled texture woven into the fabric. Created using handweaving techniques, multicoloured yarn is used to create speckles of colour amongst the wool. The base for this type of tweed is usually earthy tones like greens, greys and browns. It can also come in a number of patterns, including twill, herringbone and plaid.
Donegal tweed is traditionally known as a firmer, coarser type of tweed, but modern spinning techniques and material blends can make this fabric softer. You’ll see this tweed used for more formal attire like overcoats, waistcoats, blazers and shooting caps.
Saxony Tweed
Saxony tweed is one of the softer types of tweed, made from merino wool. Merino wool is a specific type of wool taken from Merino sheep known for its soft, porous fibres. Originating from the Saxony region of Eastern Germany, this tweed’s selling point is the soft, smooth luxury feel, unlike some of the other, more coarse types of tweed.
The fine wool makes this material lightweight and ideal for more casual and practical outerwear that still has the class of traditional tweed. If you’re out on a brisk walk with your furry friend, tweed made from Saxony wool is ideal for dog walking clothes. This tweed keeps you warm while staying lightweight enough to prevent overheating.
If you like the sound of quality dog walking wear, check out our blog on the 20 dog walking essentials for every adventure.
Cheviot Tweed
This type of tweed is named after the Cheviot Hills, where a breed of sheep of the same name originates. This tweed is the opposite of Saxony tweed, with a coarse, stiff structure that adds to the durability of the fabric. Due to its stiffness, Cheviot tweed retains its shape well and is resistant to wrinkling and shrinking. This makes this type of tweed great for more strenuous activities like farming that involve lots of bending, lifting and walking.
Estate Tweed
This isn’t a specific type of blend or weave, but rather a type of tweed used for a specific purpose. Estate tweed was designed for use on large countryside estates, with each estate developing its own custom patterns. This tweed was originally used to make it easy to identify staff and gamekeepers during hunting or shooting. You’ll commonly see shooting jackets made from estate tweed, utilising dark or earthy tones to allow shooters to blend into their natural environment.
Estate tweed has become a popular and well-recognised style in the countryside fashion world. In the modern day, when we picture tweed country wear, the muted colours and style of this fabric are usually what we imagine.
The Different Types of Tweed Patterns
Not all tweed looks the same, and there are, in fact, a number of different patterns used when creating tweed.
Twill
Twill is the standard and most basic weave used when making tweed fabric. This pattern is comprised of diagonal lines or ridges and creates a recognisable, angled grain in the fabric. This weave actually helps to increase the durability and flexibility of the fabric and makes twill a popular option for workwear and tailored suits.
Herringbone
Herringbone is one of the most renowned and widely recognised tweed patterns. This pattern is made with alternating diagonal stripes and gets its name from the resemblance to the shape of a fish skeleton. Herringbone tweed is typically used for blazers, overcoats and shooting wear in earthy colours. The distinctive zigzag pattern of this weave makes it easy to identify and is commonly used throughout a range of country wear.
Barleycorn
Barleycorn is best described as a variant of twill tweed with a speckled texture. This pattern gets its name from the small grain-like shapes that appear as the wool is woven. The speckled effect offers a light hint of colour throughout the fabric, which creates a brighter, more visually pleasing alternative to other forms of tweed. If you’re looking for a casual tweed jacket that is both rustic and eye-catching, then a barleycorn pattern is a brilliant choice.
Houndstooth
Named after its vague resemblance to dog teeth, houndstooth or dogtooth is a bold chequered pattern made from jagged shapes with four points. Houndstooth fabrics are made from a two-tone colour combination, typically black and white or other high contrast colours. Modern fashion offers houndstooth patterns in a number of colours, but country wear tends to stick to monochrome colour schemes to allow for better camouflage in outdoor environments.
If you’re looking for fashion-forward country wear, houndstooth is a statement pattern that still offers the practical benefits of every other style of tweed.
Overcheck
Overcheck is a more complicated pattern used in tweed clothing. Overcheck takes a base of squares comprised of herringbone, twill or Glen Check and then adds colourful overcheck lines on top to add contrast. Overcheck tweed can have brown or dark base colours like green or brown, but overcheck lines of red, blue or orange. This adds an extra layer of depth to the fabric whilst still retaining the practical, earthy tones for outdoor camouflage.
Overcheck tweed was common in estate tweeds, where our house colours were utilised to add a unique touch while still being practical for outdoor landscapes.
Check out our expert review of the Seeland Hillside tweed shooting clothing range to see how it performed in a real countryside setting.
Why Choose Tweed for Country Clothing?
Tweed is both a practical and aesthetically pleasing choice for country clothing, and it makes the perfect material for a range of outdoor uses.
Durable
The thick and sturdy fibres used to weave tweed make it a durable fabric that resists daily wear and tear. This material can withstand daily use in the cold and wet weather of the Scottish highlands. High-quality tweed can prove a long-term investment when cared for, and one tweed jacket or coat can protect you from years of wet weather.
Weather Resistant
The pure wool used to make tweed clothing contains lanolin, a waxy substance present in most wool-bearing animals. When paired with the tightness of the tweed weaves, this forms a water and wind-resistant barrier that keeps rain away without absorbing into the fabric. These properties make tweed a brilliant material for country clothing that can be worn in a variety of outdoor environments.
Weight
The tight weaving of traditional tweed gives it a heavier weight compared to other woollen fabrics. This additional weight is excellent for heavy-duty winter coats and jackets and keeps you warm and cosy. You can, however, also purchase lighter types of tweed, like Saxony tweed, which is more suitable for warmer weather.
Camouflage
The majority of outdoor sports associated with tweed, like hunting and shooting, require a level of stealth and camouflage to remain undetected by game. The natural tones and weaving of most tweed clothing allow you to blend into the surrounding environment more easily, increasing your success on shooting expeditions.
Stylish and Presentable
Tweed is a timeless material with a wealth of history and heritage. It’s a practical fabric for outdoor clothing, whilst also being a statement material used in modern fashion and country clothing. If you’re attending a formal event and you need to look your best, tweed is a brilliant option that gives a polished look with added texture. If you’re looking for a suit, tweed is a sophisticated choice for blazers, waistcoats and overcoats.
Hunting and shooting are also considered more luxurious sports, which means you need to appear neat and presentable. Tweed shooting breeks and jackets ensure you look smart and sophisticated when embarking on long walks through a range of terrain.
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Final Thoughts on Tweed
Tweed is an integral part of Britain’s fashion history and is a symbol of continued tradition and craftsmanship passed down through generations. Whether you’re looking for a fashion statement or practical outerwear, tweed is a high-quality material that continues to be stylish and versatile.
Tweed is the perfect choice for a wide range of country and social events where style and tradition go hand in hand. It’s ideal for country pursuits like shooting days and country fairs, where its durability and classic appeal shine. Tweed is also a touch of sophistication with a nod to timeless heritage. Often regarded as the uniform of country folk, tweed reflects a shared appreciation for tradition and craftsmanship and creates a sense of unity and belonging among those who embrace country life.
If you’re searching for premium country wear that doesn’t compromise on style, we stock a range of clothing from superior country clothing brands.
Visit our store in Hereford to explore our range or shop online and contact our experts for advice on the best items for your outdoor outings.
Posted by Isobel
Isobel is a social media specialist and content writer at Philip Morris & Son, where she creates visual media to generate sales. With a strong passion for language and marketing, she aims to craft content that connects with our customers and enhances brand presence. Starting her career in the dynamic world of social media, Isobel has recently joined the company and is keen to expand her copywriting skills and deepen her understanding of social media marketing.
Outside of work, Isobel enjoys making the most of the Herefordshire countryside walking. She’s also a keen cook, although will never turn down the opportunity to go out for dinner instead.